| Part of the Bailiwick of Guernsey, Herm is run as a resort island for the enjoyment of all who visit, be they long term visitors who use the facilities or day trippers who just want to hang on the beach. It has been in the care of Adrian’s family for over half a century, his wife Pennie being born here and their children raised on the island.
Two days after a successful interview, I found myself once again with the opportunity to hang off the back of the ferry; this time with backpack and the prospect of working the summer season as campsite warden. I am one of a hundred or so seasonal workers, drafted in each year to service the busy tourism season. So far, we are about eighty per cent full, with more workers arriving over the coming weeks. We’re a pretty cosmopolitan bunch, coming from all over Europe, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and United States. Most of them have already been here up to one month, so mixing in was a little daunting at first. But it’s easy (and essential) to make friends here and I think I am getting along fine. You’ll meet plenty of the guys in these journals over the coming months. |
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| Journal - |
| April 21st, 2005 > news from the island |
| Stirring at some ungodly hour, I knew I was once again in Guernsey. On this still foggy night, a haunting sound that takes me right back to my childhood resonates through the mist – that of several foghorns seemingly calling to each other through the dark night. It’s a sound I haven’t heard in years, and one which is strangely comforting, possibly because I am tucked up in bed rather than trying to navigate a ship through these treacherous waters.
Getting back to the island is always a strange experience. My roots are here but having lived away all these years, loosing touch with many people, I feel like an outsider. People have grown up and embraced the marriage/kids/mortgage thing, I guess leaving me to reside firmly on the shelf. Within a few days I got myself organised and mustered some much needed motivation to find temporary work, funding my stay here. The whole process of settling in was made so much easier by staying with Aunt & Uncle, Sheila and Roger, who provided me with everything you’d expect in a five star hotel. Thanks guys, I really appreciate all you have done for me! The search for work proved to be a little discouraging, all the seasonal harbour and airport work had been snapped up a month ago, and it begun to look increasingly likely I’d have to work in the banks. Back at base one evening, I took a call from someone who’d received my resume, and arranged an interview for the following day. ‘Morning…I have an interview with the manager, do I have to pay?’ This wasn’t going to be your usual kind of interview. ‘No sir, just step aboard’. Soon enough, I am hanging over the stern of the small ferry, as all nosey people like to do, inspecting our impressive foam trail as Guernsey shrinks behind us. It’s a beautiful day, and I smile to myself at the sheer novelty of catching a boat to a job interview. A mere twenty minutes later, the boat disgorges us on Herm Island, where I am to meet Island Manager, Adrian. |
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| This changes things a little. Rather than doing a boring bank job in Guernsey for a month or two before hitting the road in June, I have now committed myself to the whole season here, until September. That in itself may be a blessing – it means we will all be crossing Siberia as it really should be seen, under a blanket of snow. It also represents an exciting opportunity for me, in so many ways. Getting involved with the backpacking/tourism industry in New Zealand is something that interests me when I settle there; this should prove useful experience. It’s outdoors, active and busy enough to keep my mind from wondering whether I miss being a gamekeeper or not. On top of that, the endless partying opportunities and what better way to get a tan?
Calling Herm a resort is possibly a little misleading. That word often conjures up images of Brits abroad, sunburn and the Costa somewhere or other. It’s different here, on the island. The facilities consist of one hotel of approximately fifty rooms, a similar number of self-catering cottages and campsite of around one hundred and fifty pitches. The emphasis is definitely on peaceful relaxation, though the two pubs do get pretty lively with a heady mixture of workers, guests and visiting boaters. More refined guests opt to dine in the sumptuous restaurant, known for it’s fresh seafood and the finest collection of wines in the Channel Islands. Some prefer the excellent bar meals in the Mermaid pub, or the outdoor BBQ area nearby which I am told fills to capacity through the summer. |
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| As if being on Guernsey doesn’t feel different enough; Herm feels truly unique both to the visitor and the temporary resident. It’s a place where trust counts for much. Doors are left unlocked, children are noticeably confident and well behaved. There is no traffic, apart from a few tractors and quad bikes used for essential island work, thus no roads or noise. Everything is so small, but carefully thought out for self-sufficiency. Things we all take for granted; police, fire & rescue, school, power generation, grocery shopping and even a weekly Sunday church service are all taken care of by the fifty or so year-round residents.
As ‘camp’ warden, my job is to keep an eye on all visiting cross-dressers and homosexuals. At least that’s what was decided among friends on a night out in Guernsey before I came here. On arrival, I was relieved to discover that my main job would involve managing the two camping sites. It’s going to be a busy job – forty or so of the pitches are rental tents, which all have to be erected and kitted out, and apparently retrieved and re-erected after a summer storm. In addition, the glorious job of keeping the shower & toilet block tidy, mowing the grass and liasing with the ‘truckies’ who cart the luggage from boat to site and back. On the more glamorous side, socializing with the guests is an important aspect (and one I hope will provide plenty of BBQ steaks and free beer) and generally seeing to everyone’s needs. |
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| Emphasising the feeling of living on an island, three times weekly I make the crossing to Guernsey on our own cargo boat, Herm Seahorse, a low-draft landing craft affair. It’s surprising how much stuff needs to be brought across already, given that the tourist season has barely got underway. From toilet rolls to bread rolls, barrels of beer or barrels of oil, we bring it all. We have to handle every item right now, as the onboard crane is out of service. It’s good exercise, and excellent fun too as we hone our throwing and catching skills – so far I have avoided dropping anything into the sea. |
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| There is no internet connection on Herm, but having finally managed to buy a reasonably priced second-hand computer, I can at last keep writing the journals. Expect an update every other week from now on, as I can travel back “to the city” to upload the stories. A new feature from next week, will be random profiles from workers around the island. I hope you’ll agree, it’s a fun way to meet folk and will help you all build a picture of what this place is all about. I haven’t forgotten about my pledge to report from the other Channel Islands either – I will be taking the odd day off when possible to cover these too. In fact, a minor success recently was to score my first “workaway” crossing on a container ship to the island of Alderney – the fine people in the office have agreed to take me in return for some painting whenever I want. So even if I never make it on to a large ocean going freighter in the future, at least I will have made it aboard one, however short the journey.
Stay tuned – and do take a minute to check out the Herm Island website link, which will stay on these pages for the duration. My current contact details are at the bottom of this page. |
| The Herm Seahorse |
| no enlargement available |
| The Island of Herm |
| Shell Bay - click to enlarge |
| Frisby in the mist - click to enlarge |
| Seagull campsite - click to enlarge |
| taking on cargo - click to enlarge |
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| click logo to visit Herm |
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| click logo to visit Herm |
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| The Lurve Shack, more on this next time! |
| click to enlarge |
| Contact me like this: |
| Snail Mail - Timo (campsite warden), Administration office, Herm, Guernsey, Channel Islands, UK |
| mobile sms - UK 07781 437 481 International +44 7781 437 481 |