![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
| . |
| . |
| The Wanderyears.net is proud to be supported by Lowe Alpine - makers of high quality outdoor equipment. Click logo to visit their site |
| Driving early morning through suburban Tauranga, taking care not to spill my coffee or drop my bacon roll, it is still dark and all those strange people are out on the streets – the fitness fanatics. In the UK, the early morning joggers are normally the slightly oversize ones that prefer to go out under the cover of darkness. Here, it seems half the town is at it, and I wonder if I should be doing the same. Well, at least for a couple of seconds. There is a worrying new trend around here – Nordic walking. Participants wear tight fitting shorts and sneakers, and walk in a strange way. Think of it as Nordic skiing, without the skis, poles, or indeed, snow.
Self-consciousness consumes me while I walk across the windswept car park towards the other men. Assembled outside the building is a hard looking mob of cutthroats and vagrants and from today, I will become one of them. I stand out clearly as the new boy, with the cleanest high-vis coveralls, and no beard or mullet hair-do. I am assigned to a gang of five Maori men, and together we climb up, then down into our place of work. I lean over the edge of hold number four and peer down into the cavernous space, five decks below. The irony? After spending several months unsuccessfully trying to board a ship to get home, I am now working in my homeport as a Stevedore. I do not know how I feel right now; is this punishment for failure, every day boarding different ships from across the world? Alternatively, will it bring closure to my whole challenge, a sort of ‘sticking my fingers up to the world’ – “I did it, I got on a ship”! Well, certainly, I am often on the very ships I spent so long trying to gain passage on – I recognise vessel names and the companies that operate them. |
| Closure |
| I am working long unpredictable hours, on call twenty-four/seven. When there is a ship in, we work, often twelve or fourteen hour shifts. The region of New Zealand I live in, Bay of Plenty, is the country’s premier Kiwifruit growing region, and from this port, exports go to more than sixty countries. At this time of year, the company I am working for is busy playing their part in a huge and complex operation – getting the cargo from source to destination. For my part, I am concerned with ensuring the holds are filled to maximum capacity with the delicate and valuable cargo. The ships are mostly Reefers, that is to say, that they have refrigerated holds, and carry refrigerated containers above deck. On average, they have an unladen weight of around fifteen thousand tonnes, with four to five holds that go four or five decks below. These ships carry between five and six thousand pallets of kiwifruit, each one worth $3,500. It is a lot of fruit. I cannot even eat any of it – usually it is not yet ripe and is very cold. Once a hold is full, the hatch is closed and the oxygen sucked out (note to self: rule out stowaway thoughts) and the temperature is brought down low. When about two weeks from the destination port, some sort of gas is circulated to ripen the fruit, so that they are ready to go straight to the markets.
One of my weaker points is remembering names, and most days I get to work with different people as gangs are constantly switched from one place to another. Thankfully, I only need to remember two names; Bro, and Cuz. Every male in New Zealand is named as such, and a bloke can’t go too far wrong with either. Life is simple. Today I was the only Pakeha (white boy) in the hold. My gang is tattooed, built like your average All Black and have only six teeth between them. Anywhere else in the world, they might be called intimidating. However, this is New Zealand, and the locals are the friendliest people you could ever meet. They want to know all about my travels, where I am from, what I used to do, and why I am here. We get along fine, and I remember their names easily. “What was your favourite country bro”? If I had a dollar every time…… Well, it is a common question and I guess a fair one. My answer is always the same – I do not have one. Certainly, every place provides a memory, good or otherwise. Every experience is unique, whether meeting locals, riding the rails alone or partying with newfound friends. At the time, spending an entire day trying to book a simple train ticket can seem frustrating, as can any of the numerous other moments of madness. But looking back, I value those as much as any other. The very essence of travel is about change, about the unexpected. It is good to begin with a plan; however, being flexible and open to change is key. This journey did not end the way I wanted it to, but it does not matter. The proposed one-year trip became two, I got to work and play in some great places with some special people, and the end came recently with even more surprises. So there is no one favourite, but a collection of memories that will stay with me forever. The big ones might be living with nomadic Mongolians in their family ger, walking on the frozen expanse of Siberia’s Lake Baikal, or riding that motorbike through Vietnam’s minority villages. Collectively, the little moments are just as important to me. Being chased by an angry terrier (big dog in a small body), not getting off a train and entering/leaving a country twice, catching a big fish and sharing it with the boat owner and his family over dinner. They go on and on, but you will be pleased to note that I have no intention repeating them here and now! Many will remain in my thoughts only, the rest are included in some thirty-four journals that make up this website. Talking of websites, I have grown quite proud of this one. The Wander Years is my first, and most likely, my last website – it began with a simple desire to record the journey and share it with friends and family. As it would turn out, the vast majority of regular readers would be complete strangers, and I now get emails from all corners of the globe. Surprising how some of these people have come to show more interest in my travels than others! I remember that long winter when I sat down on my dial up computer and started to build the pages – I didn’t have a clue what I was doing. I am always grateful to friends who looked over those first pages, and the ones who where honest in their appraisal. Fiona pointed out my badly clashing colours; in fact, I had broken just about every web design rule there is. I may still do that from time to time, but at least you don’t need sunglasses to look now. I wish I had kept one of those early pages, to compare now. So here it is, as desired, a complete record of my trip, and it even helped to secure that final month of writing/travelling for WorldNomads, another bonus unplanned for. Additionally, I gained far more out of it than this; my grammar and spelling may be as poor as ever, but I have at least learned to be more concise (What? You think this goes on? You should see my early journals)! While it has been a significant amount of work to keep up to date, it has given me a focus, a reason to keep busy and to look more closely at things. I am the sort of person that needs that – travelling to me is about being on the move, not laid in bed all day long, just because you can. Well, not always. What next? Well, I am glad to be in NZ. I know the country well, have already spent long enough here, but this time it is different. I have to stay still for a while. Like all returning travellers, I have an overwhelming lust for the normal things in life. To wash my own clothes in a machine. To shop in the supermarket. To cook a meal, open a bottle of wine and watch some TV. I am gradually getting out of the habit of turning my underpants inside out to go another few days. To go to work, and see my bank balance rise instead of fall. I plan to get a dog very soon – for me there is no greater commitment to settling down. It is a statement, in Timo world – it says, “Look, I have a dog, I’m settled”. I’m sure a bank manager will agree when I approach him for a mortgage! I am a way off yet, still need a house to call my own, a few (quite a lot, actually) domestic appliances and a girl. All in good time. Meantime, I continue to work long hours on the ships. I am actually enjoying it, meeting crews from the Philippines, Korea, Japan, Europe, India and Pakistan. It is almost as if I am still travelling. Interesting smells waft from the ships’ galley and different languages to be heard. Each time a vessel is loaded ready to sail, I feel a tinge of sadness to be left on the wharf as she is manoeuvred out into the channel. The crew look on, probably feeling equally sad that they cannot stay in this cool country. I guess I have the better deal. Outside that, I am taking up business classes two days each week, and doing as much hunting and fishing as possible. Long term, I have some great options, but as always it is a matter of timing, luck, and keeping the bills paid. Unfortunately, I am in no position to divulge what is probably my most exciting news. It is too early, and would tempt fate to mention it now. Let us just say I may get to do something similar to what I have just done, while being paid. Additionally, I have a little business idea, hence why I am attending classes. Great to have these options, but also a little confusing. Sometimes, I wish my life were more simple, work nine ‘till five and all that – but then, I think I would die very quickly. |
| I feel a little sorry to be leaving you all now, but there is no reason to go on. One more time, I would like to thank everyone who has sent me so many messages of support or compliment. To the many varied people I have met along the way, many of whom do not have access to the internet, thank you also.
Haere ra (Farewell, Maori) The Wander Years May 14th Timo NOTES 2 yrs and 2 months on the road Interesting fact: The ground distance from London to Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia, is only a little more than the total Matt and I drove on our loop in Australia! Approximately 16,900 km covered by land only to reach Singapore, including diversions An additional 7,000 km was clocked up on the Australian outback adventure. Crossing Indonesia to Australia by sea remains my nemesis – one day, when I have the contacts, I will do this. You just watch me! To bring the Wander Years up to date and leave it fit to stay current and online, I have removed many pages that are no longer relevant. To remove all these links from thousands of pages is impossible, so I have only done this from the most commonly visited and new ones. The archives still contain every journal (apart from one I managed to delete), as does WanderYears EXTRA contains all the images. In addition, there is now a video library (with movies I made in Oz) and a final image page of all my favourites, with links to the relevant journal/image page. I hope you continue to pop in from time to time, or pass it on to other budding travellers. I know many of you have not had the chance to see the movies we made in Australia - now is your chance as I have posted them all on a special page - The Video Vault When I make up these journal pages, the last job in my routine is to design the banner you see at top. This is usually a hastily conducted affair, for at this point I have had more than enough of computers. Tonight, when proof reading the finished article, it suddenly dawned on me that I had made a fundamental error. The original text on the banner read “Weighing Anchor”, which of course means to lift it up and set sail into the sunset. Hardly in keeping with my final “settling down” journal. Is this an omen? While I ponder that one, for now, my anchor is well and truly dropped. |
![]() |
![]() |
| Duck shooting, Kiwi style |
| * |
| The Wander Years 2005 - 2007 |
| click image to view "Wharfies" - a brief movie showing you what I get up to at work! |
| click image to view "Wharfies" - a brief movie showing you what I get up to at work! |